tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.comments2024-03-18T23:00:40.351-07:00Filthy Pants: A Computer BlogHunter K.http://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comBlogger1412125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-22461643569311083532024-03-14T19:59:52.631-07:002024-03-14T19:59:52.631-07:00Hey ted,
I'm afraid not, as far as I know :(Hey ted,<br />I'm afraid not, as far as I know :(Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-41175200600412016842024-03-14T18:32:20.192-07:002024-03-14T18:32:20.192-07:00Any way to have multiple library's to the smar...Any way to have multiple library's to the smart play list ? IE my movie's and tv.tedhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15658749502989876004noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-66509162496287380482024-01-05T06:56:24.652-08:002024-01-05T06:56:24.652-08:00I don't have my old Super Nt anymore, but I re...I don't have my old Super Nt anymore, but I recall it was kinda weird about controllers. Some of my multi-boards (I have a smattering of Cthulhus and PS360+s) would work with it and some wouldn't. Likewise with some of my adapters (IIRC, my classic controller-to-SNES adapter wouldn't work), though all of them worked on original hardware.<br /><br />That's a clever fix, putting in the NC button :)Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-32924105052478612452024-01-05T06:41:13.175-08:002024-01-05T06:41:13.175-08:00Thanks for this post. I will definitely be making...Thanks for this post. I will definitely be making some of these cables. I have a brook retro board and currently have just tested with a SNES, NES, and Super NT. The SNES and NES work fine but for some reason the Brook Retro board does not recognize the Super NT as A SNES when first booted. If you unplug and plug the controller in it will then function as normal. Slightly annoying but to make it easier I wired a NC button on the top of my hitbox to cut 5v and that works fine. I just turn on the super nt and smack that button and I'm good to go. I actually have a cthulhu from a long time ago and some various cables so I need to find that since those should be compatible.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-13405329241666822162024-01-04T09:54:47.382-08:002024-01-04T09:54:47.382-08:00Ah, awesome! I'd like to check it out once you...Ah, awesome! I'd like to check it out once you get it going :)Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-38870199975751342872024-01-04T06:27:59.257-08:002024-01-04T06:27:59.257-08:00Thanks for this. I found some of these on ebay fo...Thanks for this. I found some of these on ebay for pretty cheap and have been wanting to make a hitbox controller for genesis. Should work great!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-31346476350403821772023-10-03T20:10:25.988-07:002023-10-03T20:10:25.988-07:00Hey, I'm glad you found it useful :)
Yeah, th...Hey, I'm glad you found it useful :)<br /><br />Yeah, that seems right, based on other pinouts I can see online. The strange thing is that the way the pins are ordered in that paragraph, it looks like I started out that way and then swapped the order after the fact (that is, it skips from pin 4 to 2 to 3 to 1 instead of going in order). So, I'm sure I had *some* reason for changing it, but that reason doesn't appear to be valid/correct.<br /><br />In any event, I updated the post to put data+ (back?) on pin 3 where it belongs. Thanks for the heads-up.Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-56980274171583366642023-10-03T09:52:23.951-07:002023-10-03T09:52:23.951-07:00Been using this blog for YEARS, thank you for keep...Been using this blog for YEARS, thank you for keeping it up! I think I may have found a slight error in the first, USB section:<br />"It's pretty simple - ground (pin 4 of the USB cable) goes to pin 1 of the ethernet cable, data+ (USB pin 2) goes to pin 5 of the ethernet cable, data- (USB pin 3) goes to ethernet pin 6 and VCC (USB pin 1) goes to ethernet pin 8." <br /><br />USB pin 3, which is the closest pin to ground in the diagram, is actually data + rather than data -, right? The diagrams are all accurate and everything else is good--this distinction would only matter when, say, grabbing Data - and Data + from pin headers or vias or somewhere other than the actual usb interface on something like a Brook PCB or GP2040. <br /><br />Thanks again! <br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-91454202572005790682023-09-06T19:03:51.029-07:002023-09-06T19:03:51.029-07:00I figured out the best way to make RJ-45 to USB C ...I figured out the best way to make RJ-45 to USB C cables. Buy a USB A-C Male-Male Cable, cut off the USB A end, and install the RJ-45 on that end. No extra cables to confuse you.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-32588745492201321352023-09-06T17:35:47.747-07:002023-09-06T17:35:47.747-07:00> How do you make one using a USB-C cable that ...> How do you make one using a USB-C cable that has 8 wires inside?<br /><br />AFAIK, you'll still only use the same 4 cables. That is, Vcc, ground, D+ and D-. The other lines don't serve any purpose for us, so we can just pretend they don't exist :)Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-22165293351620399902023-09-06T16:29:28.154-07:002023-09-06T16:29:28.154-07:00When making an RJ-45 to USB C cable, I was lucky a...When making an RJ-45 to USB C cable, I was lucky as this one had 4 cables in it. How do you make one using a USB-C cable that has 8 wires inside?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-39796974103713333962023-08-03T18:18:06.096-07:002023-08-03T18:18:06.096-07:00Forgotten detail: When installing RJ45 ends onto t...Forgotten detail: When installing RJ45 ends onto these controller cables, here are some other tips...<br /><br />1] Always use 2-3 piece design RJ-45 ends, ends that use loading bars, ends that are reusable, or ends that have passthrough designs. Yes this is a repeat, and that's on purpose.<br /><br />2] Always put a protective RJ-45 tab boot on the cable.<br />-The last thing you want is the cable's lock tab to get broken after you worked so hard to make the end. Bonus is it hides the effects and some of the possible mess of the next tip...<br /><br />3] Fill the end after testing with non-conductive hot glue from a small glue gun if you aren't using reusable RJ-45 ends. I got my glue gun and glue from the dollar store.<br />-This will prevent movement of the wires as sometimes if using really thin USB cables, they might get pulled out of the RJ-45 end. I've had this happen.<br />-This is tactic is especially good when making braided cables. <br />-Use something like a pinhead, heat-shrink tubing, paperclips, tiny or thin zip ties, basically anything really small that can force all the fraying into the RJ-45 plug. Test the cable, then if it works, fill the end with glue so it doesn't fray ever. <br /><br />If you do things this way, they'll look almost as good as if not equal to the manufactured cables, and if done correctly might be of even higher quality. They don't fill manufactured RJ-45 cables with hot glue, so the breakage risk is slightly higher. Also, you can have any color you want and even braided cables for your arcade stick.<br /><br />Today, I made a Braided RJ-45 to USB-c male cable by cutting of the USB-A male end, and following the instructions here. This is for my friend's MAS Stick. It has a Brook Universal Fighting Board + Retro Board + UFB-UP5, so he can use it on his PS5 for Street Fighter 6.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-23893122224905585822023-08-03T17:49:52.643-07:002023-08-03T17:49:52.643-07:00For people making USB to RJ-45 cables, I've al...For people making USB to RJ-45 cables, I've also found that you cannot get the Ground and Voltage to fit in the RJ-45 plugs occasionally. There are 5 ways to deal with that problem off the top of my head. There are others, but I'm too lazy to mention or brainstorm any others.<br /><br />NOTE: This is being made assuming you're using 2 or 3 piece designed RJ-45 ends. These have a loading bar. NEVER make these kind of cables if you are using RJ45 ends unless you're using either a pass through RJ45 or an end that includes a loading bar. Trust me, not doing so is a NIGHTMARE.<br /><br />1 File, and or sand down the ground and the voltage till they fit. You can gently scrape away the plastic or rubber using a box cutter, exacta knife, scalpel, or sandpaper. This is the best option, but also tries my patience. Still, this is likely the safest and best method.<br /><br />2 Strip the ground and the voltage leaving 2-3cm exposed, and 3-5mm on them unstripped on that end. Obviously I don't mean strip the entire wire less 3-5mm. Twist them, and shove them in the loading bar. shove the other cables in, pull them tight so that the still shielded 3-5mm portions of the ground and power are touching where the loading bar is thus protecting the other wires. Then crimp the wires.<br /><br />3 Go the other way. Buy USB ends and put them on an RJ-45 cable instead.<br /><br />4 Cut both an RJ-45 cable and a USB cable in the middle, solder, heat-shrink wrap them, and tape them together. <br /><br />5 Buy Screw-down RJ-45 male [or female] ends for USB cables<br /><br />6 Buy and use Screw-down USB male [or female] terminals for RJ-45 terminals.<br /><br />I hope this helps.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-62422006400642809782023-08-03T17:25:55.325-07:002023-08-03T17:25:55.325-07:00I don't follow, I guess...? You said 'dont...I don't follow, I guess...? You said 'dont trust the one below' and then linked to the photo, so I moved it away and left the diagram. Was that not right?Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-25019849519488926482023-08-03T16:43:08.588-07:002023-08-03T16:43:08.588-07:00Actually, the color picture of the Dreamcast cable...Actually, the color picture of the Dreamcast cable was incorrect, and the black and white one for the Dreamcast was correct. <br /><br />=Please restore the Black and White one, and remove the color one. That or make a picture of the Dreamcast end that is in color with the correct pinouts.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-75993435852575772912023-06-23T12:14:33.169-07:002023-06-23T12:14:33.169-07:00@Lorenzo
I'm not sure I understand the questio...@Lorenzo<br />I'm not sure I understand the question. You mean vs a "zero delay" board? If so, it's the boards' internal latency that's such a problem, not anything related to USB.Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-75067914663370232962023-06-22T07:33:17.753-07:002023-06-22T07:33:17.753-07:00But the Arduino encoder still gets connected over ...But the Arduino encoder still gets connected over USB, are there real advantages over a native USB encoder?Lorenzonoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-86934769578823722022023-03-12T07:31:56.671-07:002023-03-12T07:31:56.671-07:00Hunter can you contact me please?
Thanks,
Shawn
M...Hunter can you contact me please?<br />Thanks,<br />Shawn <br />Mbiologysv@aol.comAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-4913501504402839752023-03-12T05:32:46.499-07:002023-03-12T05:32:46.499-07:00I know this is an old post, but I’ve been looking ...I know this is an old post, but I’ve been looking desperately for this PCB.<br />Does anyone know where to find this specific PCB for a mod I’m trying to complete.<br />Please contact me directly if you have one of these fully functional for sale.<br />Mbiologysv@aol.com<br />Please help!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-45411548685739927822023-02-16T12:54:32.035-08:002023-02-16T12:54:32.035-08:00Do you happen to have a connection diagram for hoo...Do you happen to have a connection diagram for hooking amp up? Not sure if I have all the cables?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-63450519864605627192023-01-16T15:28:53.708-08:002023-01-16T15:28:53.708-08:00Hey man, yeah, I'm still around :)
Hmm, no, I...Hey man, yeah, I'm still around :)<br /><br />Hmm, no, I didn't have to do anything other than load the firmware onto the board and then wire up the buttons according to this image: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/MickGyver/DaemonBite-Arcade-Encoder/master/images/daemonbite-arcade-encoder-wiring.png<br /><br />The directions should show up as arrow keys, IIRC.Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-36886395997773300372023-01-15T22:37:44.104-08:002023-01-15T22:37:44.104-08:00I'm not sure if this is active anymore, but I&...I'm not sure if this is active anymore, but I'm going down a similar path. Anyways, did you have to do any fiddling with Daemonbite in order to get it to recognize digital directions? Looks to me like it's meant for stick. It might be user error but I'm unsure why I'm not getting it to work wired as shown on the github page. Any advice is appreciated!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10159281152050824651noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-28693055553039880682022-12-13T05:15:03.701-08:002022-12-13T05:15:03.701-08:00Agree. I'm more surprised by the fact that the...Agree. I'm more surprised by the fact that there's no one selling those switches than by the fact that there are 2 pinouts for the same cable and companies never agreed on a standard.nfp0noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-5835143905938859492022-08-21T17:24:12.911-07:002022-08-21T17:24:12.911-07:00It would need to go before, but you don't usua...It would need to go before, but you don't usually need to do such a thing because CRT shaders typically want the original-res output, and they have their own scaling kernels that will even out the scaling.Hunter K.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18379090454291486194noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6845625574553920830.post-1982314987604785232022-08-21T17:13:52.014-07:002022-08-21T17:13:52.014-07:00For best results should pixellate be before or aft...For best results should pixellate be before or after a CRT shader?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com