8bitdo had put out a couple of arcade sticks in the past, the FC30 and FC30 Sanwa Edition, but those sticks never got much traction, AFAICT, and they're long-since discontinued now (and I've never seen one come up on eBay). They've revisited the concept recently, though (presumably because their devices are compatible with the Nintendo Switch*, which got a Street Fighter 2 port, and no other company has released an arcade stick for that market), and released their NES30 Arcade stick, which I preordered as soon as I heard about it.
First impressions - Build Quality and Information
The plastic used for the main body of the box feels a little flimsy. It has some flex to it, which isn't encouraging, and there's a lot of empty space inside the stick, though this is actually a good thing when it comes time to start poking around in there. It has a nice, thick, solid metal base with recessed screws and built-in rubber feet, which is a big advantage in my opinion when compared with the flimsy, easily lost rubber feet from the Mad Catz TE and SE sticks (and once the feet were lost, the non-recessed screws would scrape up wooden surfaces and get caught on fabric -_-).
The buttons are knockoff Japanese-style and feel predictably crummy, but passable if you're just going to use it casually. The stick feels pretty decent, really, with none of the gravelly, scraping feelings characteristic of the Mad Catz SE sticks as they slowly ate themselves.
There are 8 full-size (i.e. 30 mm) buttons for A, B, X, Y, R1, L1, R2 and L2 in modern, staggered arcade stick layout, and a smaller button (presumably 24 mm) for Start. There are also smaller non-arcade-style buttons on the control panel for Select, Pair and Turbo. While Select is bindable in gaming software, the Turbo and Pair buttons are not exposed, leaving users with 10 buttons and a 4-way joystick. That is, there is no dedicated "home" button for assigning to "menu_toggle" in RetroArch/MAME.
Wireless connectivity over Bluetooth is quick and painless, and there's no obvious perceptible latency. If you want to play wired and/or charge the stick, 8bitdo has supplied a full-size USB-A-to-A cable, which is, frankly, bizarre.
The metal base is held onto the box by 6 small phillips-head screws. Once those are removed, you can pop the base off safely. That is, there is nothing attached to the base that can get yanked out, etc. Once inside, you can see that the wiring is clean and organized, with color-coded wires leading to plastic pin-headers on the board. You can also see the support structure (the hollow tubes surrounding the buttons), which provides a strong backbone where the stick will be seeing the most abuse.
|A shot of the insides before I got started on it.|
The bad news:
Speaking of the stick, it has a clip-in square restrictor plate/gate and has the control wires soldered directly to Lema microswitches, from Chinese company Zhejiang Lema Electrics Co. Ltd:
The Lema switches are pretty close in size and shape to the tough-as-nails Cherry microswitches you would find in Happ/IL sticks and buttons, and I decided to swap them out for some I had in an old Happ Competition joystick.
|The extra-roomy case came in handy here for holding my insulated alligator clips|
which were only about a quarter of an inch too short to fit them comfortably. [Update 10/27/2017: I was wrong, they're almost exactly the same height as the SE box, so the long-stem Happ/IL buttons won't fit, but the short-stem ILs will.]
*Note, the wired vs wireless issue seems to actually be in favor of wireless on the Switch, oddly enough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avvmck40cIw